May 29, Walking Winstone to Cirencester

He Said:

Today was soggy, wet, and even drenching at times. We did great, and we got lucky to be in a church vestibule early on so we could put on our rain gear sheltered from the weather.

The walk brought us through a series of small rural hamlets and a number of small churches. We always like to see the churches because of the surprising history they contain. The roads we followed are very narrow, and there were several fords filled with water, these were generally not suitable for normal cars, fortunately, there was always a bypass path so walkers did not need to wade in.

The last few miles had long straight paths, through farm fields, past polo grounds, and through forests of Chestnut trees. It was raining, but also beautiful. The last long straight path led us into the city of Cirencester, the largest place we've been for a few days. We explored the cathedral then walked around before our pickup time.

She Said:

After a rollicking ride w/Alex (our Stow-on-the-Wold driver) on some tiny country lanes we came to St. Bartholomew’s Church (1077) in Winstone and the start of our walk. Uh oh… the countryside churches are starting to run together for me. I didn’t take any notes in my trusty little notepad while in St. Bartholomew’s and R’s blog pictures only jog my memory so much. By now, though, I can actually recognize the Saxon and Norman characteristics (St. B’s had both) and can pick out medieval wooden structures (St. B’s had some original roof beams and a partial Rood Screen used as decoration behind the altar).

So, lesson learned – take notes all the time.

Our walk was peaceful, quiet, misty and atmospheric. No people as the Bank Holiday weekend was winding down (and, the rain was keeping most people indoors).

Next up – Duntisbourne Abbots, home of Dr. M. Baillie who was physician to King George lll (of The Madness of King George fame). Duntisbourne Abbot’s church is the Church of St. Peter – early 12th century; 3 bells tower (bells cast in 1658).

The small villages in this area are all very well kept – seemingly quite affluent. (Our driver to Burford at the end of the walk said that many homes are second homes for wealthy Londoners.) Gorgeous gardens with in-bloom climbing roses. The homes and buildings are made of the warm, golden Cotswold stone, so all the villages look soft and inviting. The horses in the paddocks look like the horses one sees in formal English paintings, and as we pass by they seem to strike that pose. Majestic animals.

Up to another Duntisbourne – this one was Duntisbourne Rous. Its church did have some interesting features (which I can now remember as I did take notes here!) –

· Saxon building feature – a herringbone pattern of stones on the exterior

· Chancel is Norman

· Bells are late 14th century

· Misericord Seats (with the built-in feature of a ledge to lean against if the service went on too long)

· The Big Thing – 13th century wall paintings! Amazing to see a wall almost entirely covered in a painting 800 years old. Though faded, it was easy to see that it must have been vibrant and bright in its day.

Still misty rain. Easy walking, though – soft grassy fields or (minimally) paved country lanes.

On to Daglingworth.

The Church of the Holy Rood

· Saxon arch entry with a sundial above the door – however, the sundial has not seen the sun for over 500 years as the porch (vestibule) was built back then and covered the original arch and door.

· In that vestibule were brass memorial floor plates honoring deceased from the 1600’s.

· 4 Saxon sculptures found during church renovations. The sculptures were hidden in the Saxon Chancel arch. The very weird thing is that, when they were found, they were facing into the walls. Nobody knows why. Those mysterious Saxons!

Rain to mist then back to rain then back to mist.

We walked a comfortable path through 2 large valley-wide fields of winter wheat – lush and beautiful.

As we climbed out of the valley, the hard rain came again.

Then mist.

A nice respite as we walked into and through the enormous Cirencester Park and Polo Grounds.

Then, a really, really hard rain.

We were prepared with our Goretex; I felt a bit sorry for the Polo players, just beginning a match. Interesting to see through the sheets of rain.

The path through the Park was long and lovely and wet. Tree cover helped a bit. Then, out onto a long, grand, paved path/promenade leading right into the town of Cirencester.

Cirencester is built on the site of the Roman town, Corinium. It is a very well-kept town, with large homes and posh shops.

We walked to the large parish church, St. John the Baptist (12th century). What a wondrous site! Because it was built on the site of an old Roman ditch, the church needed the support of flying buttresses, both inside and out. So, lots of drama.

So many interesting features;

· In 1400, the bell tower was constructed using funds taken from the rebellious Earls of Kent and Salisbury, after they were arrested by the townspeople and executed in the Cirencester town square – bummer.

· The Lady Chapel – 1240 – with a very handsome relief memorial to Humphry Bridges, his wife, and their 11 children. A carved wood cat and mouse are hidden amongst the other more traditional carvings in the ceiling.

· St. Catherine’s Chapel – 1150 – intricate, delicate “fan” ceiling.

· The Pulpit – 1450 – a rare example of the wine glass design (yay!). There is an hourglass “sermon timer” on the wall next to the pulpit. Sadly, the timer is no longer in use!

· The Boleyn Cup – 1535 – made for Anne Boleyn, then given to her daughter Queen Elizabeth, then given by the Queen to her physician (Richard Master, who lived nearby), and finally, by R. Master to the church.

· Monox Tomb – 1638 – another of those husband/wife relief things.

· A priest’s vestment from 1475. The embroidery still awe-inspiring, though the velvet is faded. There is a panel from a book of the era showing the priest wearing the vestment. Wow.

About a half-mile from the church, is a large fragment (50’?) Roman wall that once surrounded the town. Shades of Hadrian’s Wall.

Our driver took us to our room for the night – at The Angel in the town of Burford. The Angel is a real pub and inn and we were happy for our big room and good shower.

My favorite British show, Spring Watch, started this night and we enjoyed seeing and hearing the familiar presenters and the countryside that we have been walking through for the last 3 weeks.

Tomorrow – our last walking day – sigh.

Miles: 9.4

Photos:

breakfast in Stow