Friday, May 19, 2017

May 19, Day 6 on the Norfolk Coast - walk from Weybourne to Cromer

He Said:

Today we finished the Norfolk Coast walk in Cromer on a wet and windy day.
Tomorrow, we're going to the Peak District.



She Said:
Some Catch-up –

We walked in the rain all day on Friday – but, amazingly, we were cozy and warm in our head-to-toe GoreTex.  Drizzle, then a good wind, and finally, a good bit of driving rain.

The difference from the day before’s calm, lapping beach waves to yesterday’s angry, gray, open-ocean-looking sea was pretty dramatic!

We did walk through Sheringham, usually a happy beach resort town, now a closed-up-against-the-wind/rain-town.  Still, the Path passed along Sheringham’s Art Walk, and we enjoyed a wonderful look at the town through the eyes of local artists.

Up until about 1950 (?), fishermen from Sheringham each wore sweaters with distinctive cable weaves.  This was so that, if they capsized and drowned, their bodies could be identified by the sweater they wore.

We walked up Beeston Hill (supposedly the only hill in Norfolk).  Beeston Hill was the sight of a lookout/transmitting station during WWll – “manned” completely by the Wrens, many of whom spoke German.  The Wrens kept a lookout, and if they saw or heard something, they intercepted it, translated it, and sent it along via motorbike runners to Bletchley Park, to be further decoded and sent on to London.  As with the Bletchley Park women, they were sworn to secrecy for 30 years!

We ate our first lunch in All Saints Beeston Regis Church, out of the wind and the rain.  (We walked through one of the ubiquitous “Holiday Parks” to get there – acres and acres of trailers, owned or rented, near the sea for city folks to feel they are getting away from it all even though they are really still in the midst of it all.)

As with most country churches, All Saints had some interesting quirks:
·       The tower was built in the late 11th – early 12th century.
·       In the 15th century, the roof was braced with wooden arches, embellished with “the instruments of the Passion” – that is, nails, hammer, cross, crown of thorns.  Creepy.
·       The Rood Screen (the carved wooden screen that separates the common people from the altar and the clergy) dates from 1480.  It has been refurbished, but the bones of it are still intact and quite intricately carved.
·       There were more “poppyhead pews” and we learned the real derivation of the term.  From the French word “poupee”, meaning puppet, or figurehead.  This finally made sense, as we had seen and read reference to poppyhead pews in the church in Weybourne but could see no resemblance there to actual flower poppies.  Now that we knew the origin of the word, it was easy to see worn figureheads at the ends of each pew.
·       Framed “Communion Linens” – beautiful handmade laces used to serve the communion bread and wine.


Then, onward into Cromer, and our accommodation for the night, The Grove.

Even in the rain, it was easy to see the attraction of Cromer.  It is a lovely seaside town, with wonderful shops and restaurants.  It has a jutting pier with a Theater and a long Promenade along the water. We stopped in St. Peter and St. Paul Church in the center of town and were warmly greeted by some parish representatives.  St. Peter and St. Paul has the lucky distinction of holding a full house of 400 parishioners every Sunday – quite an accomplishment in this day and age.  They have a strong vision for their future and seem to work tirelessly towards it – happy families and a congregation of 1000 by 2025! 

Then, a 15 minute walk through a clean and well-kept town to The Grove.

The Grove has been run by the same family (the Gravelings) since 1936.  And, it shows.  Definite pride of ownership in all they do.  The big house was previously owned by the Barclay (of Barclay’s Bank) family, but the history goes back further.  The current Gravelings have brought their own flair to the enterprise – in addition to the big house - a swimming pool, Glamping facilities, cottages.  And, the restaurant - the food is fantastic; the wine and beer list superb.  The staff is perfect.

Our only regret was that we were only booked in for the one night.  We would have happily stayed for several!





Photos:













































No comments:

Post a Comment