May 22, Day 2 in the Peak District

He said:

We walked along the River Manifold from the visitor center in Holme End to Ilam, with a climb to a 16th century estate house near the end. Most of our route was flat as it followed the river along what was once a rail line; closed in the 1930's.... easy walking on a beautiful spring day.

She Said:

We started our walk at the Manifold Visitors Center, the one-time train station when the Manifold Line ran up the valley along the Manifold River.

A comfortable walking day.

We passed a geologic formation that made me think of a sure-fire webcast/podcast that I’m going to explore – Ask A Geek. I figure my brother, John, will know the rock things, R explained what a “Manifold” is, so he could do the engineering thing (and maybe the Physics stuff, too), and I’m sure I can find more Geeks to be experts in other fields. People could email or text their questions in for specific categories and the corresponding Geek would answer them. I think it is kind of a great idea.

We walked through an old train tunnel, 250 yards long. R won the Echo Contest with his excellent rendition of prehistoric bird calls.

Up popped a Tea Room in the middle of nowhere.

Our map/directions told us to be on the lookout for Caves used by Neolithic people, and, sure enough, we saw three. It was quite easy to imagine families living high above the valley and river, safe (relatively) and sheltered in their cave. Since the Neoliths already had fire, I could see them, after a successful hunt, sitting around the fire eating a good meal and gazing out at the beautiful valley below.

The third and largest (60’ high at the mouth) is called Thor’s Cave. It is enormous and looming. Not only would it have provided a home, but it would also have looked formidable to anyone below with an inkling for attack.

The fragrance of the wild garlic was strong.

Up a hill we climbed for fabulous views.

A couple of anxious new Mom cows came close too us to put themselves between us and their new baby calves.

The path led us through a farm where the farmer was talking with some other walkers and we joined in to listen.

The stone building we were standing before was from the 15th century. The farmer said that Henry Vlll and Oliver Cromwell had both stayed there (obviously, not at the same time – Ha!). It was amazing, once again, to be so close to History. (The building is now the Bull barn and one of the largest and most magnificent beasts I have ever seen was staring out at us – a blond bull with ring through his nose.

Even more to come…

Just next to the farm, and the sister building to the barn, stood the ruins of Throwley Hall, a medieval masterpiece that lords over the entire valley (like the inhabitants of Thor Cave, in their day). It was the center of a medieval settlement and farming lands that stretched from Throwley down the valley to Ilam (more on Ilam a bit later).

As usual, I am awed, first, that these solid architectural ruins appear out of nowhere in the countryside, and second, that we are allowed to walk around and through them and, if we had a mind to, we could even climb all over them.

They are here. They are loved. They are respected. No litter. No juvenile delinquent post-party detritus hanging around.

Calm and quiet ruins speaking to us, down the ages, while we gaze out at the gorgeous countryside – Brilliant.

We walked along a narrow, country lane with no cars and no people – as if the day’s walk was made just for us.

We walked into Ilam Park and the other end of the valley, grounds of the imposing Ilam Hall. Built in the late 1700’s, it fell into disrepair. Jesse Watts-Russell married the owners daughter and did his best to shore it up. He did succeed relatively well, and even ran a luxury hotel there. But, alas, 100 rooms is just too much to keep up, the hotel failed and the property was sold off to a developer (yikes!). A local benefactor swooped in. took over and restored Ilam Hall to its original glory. Then he gave it to The National Trust so that generations to come could enjoy it. Yay, Sir Robert McDougal!

We stopped in the Tea Room there and indulged in a piece of Cappuccino Cake. Yum.

The Church of the Holy Cross is on the grounds of Ilam Hall and we poked around in there for a while. Always something interesting, as I mentioned before, in a country Church:

· A Norman stone Font, intricately carved with scenes from the life (they think) of St. Bertram.

· Two “Maidens Garlands” hanging from an arch – these paper garlands included gloves, flowers and handkerchiefs of the deceased women (who died having not married) – they were part of the funeral ceremony and hung in the Church unless someone could prove otherwise that they were not “maidens”. The two in this Church are thought to be from 1834 and 1861.

· Tombs with effigies of Robert Meverall and his wife, Elizabeth, from the afore mentioned Throwley Hall – residents there in the 17th century.

Dinner in the Devonshire Arms Pub room across the street from our B+B.

What a great day!

Miles – 9.9

Photos:

Near Holme End